The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Around the World
So far, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from construction by establishing permanent, productive farming plots within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the skins into the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a fence on